Though when I see what they've done to Honokowai, Kahana, Napili and Kapalua I want to cry. Sure, it's tastefully developed, except for that violently pink Embassy Vacation Resort monstrosity which surely violates some kind of local code. The road's been widened north of Lahaina, and that's a good thing. But oh, the rows of identical condos and timeshares where green fields of sugarcane once covered the hills is a sorrowful sight. It seems the sugar companies are nearly all out of business. There's only one sugar mill left on the whole island.

Well, things change, I know that. And some things haven't changed at all. The drive up to Haleakala was terrific, for instance. We went from sea level to 10,000 feet in about two hours. I got very woozy from walking too fast, i.e., at my normal pace. But the views were magnificent, and we saw both chukar and nene very close up (native birds with limited populations). Before going to the top I drove us through some Upcountry roads and towns for a taste of non-tourist Maui. We saw plenty of pineapple fields and bought drinks at the Pukalani Superette where we examined but wimped out on buying some exotic local snack food involving pickled, salted fruit.

On a different day we visited the Io Needle, had lunch at a friendly, funky Mexican place in Wailuku that served a strange combination of Tex-Mex and native Hawaiian fare, checked out the harbor at Ma'alea, and saved the whales at the Pacific Whale Foundation. Well, maybe we saved one fin of one whale, but our money was 100% donated to the cause so I felt positively saintly about buying a pair of earrings decorated with petroglyph-style sea turtles. I love dichroic glass jewelry.

We saw a real sea turtle, diving in and around the surf near our first hotel, the Maui Prince in Makena. I liked it down there, it's so much quieter and less touristy than Kaanapali and Lahaina. There are tourist oriented sections and fancy shopping in Wailea, don't get me wrong, but you also get a more laid back experience and the beaches are wonderful. John went to an Internet cafe which was very much a local hangout type joint. I had a fresh mango smoothie and read while John checked in with the real world. Afterwards we shopped at an open air market where I bought a strand of big, black freshwater pearls that hung down below my navel for $10 and John got a Humuhumunukunukuapuaa t-shirt. We ate grilled fish and shrimp and fries at Alexander's, and watched the school kids get let off their bus in front of the shopping center. All of them wore flip flops or sandals. Man, what a life.

Our second hotel was the Westin in Kaanapali, and the location was excellent for upscale shopping but the number of people around practically doubled. The property itself was all pools and waterfalls and fancy plantings and statues stuck in arty, odd places. They had half a dozen coral colored Chilean flamingos who lived in the main (non-swimmable) pool by the lobby. Late at night they would spread out from their little shoreline away from the people side of the pool and do a bit of fishing around some of the rocks near the lobby. I really liked the flamingos.

Unfortunately, the islands have been hit pretty hard by the drop in tourism, and the Westin recently let about half their staff go. The hotel was running on a skeleton crew. It showed, and although it didn't interfere with our visit much I wasn't very impressed, either. If I had paid the big bucks for a vacation package I would have been majorly cheesed off to wait a long time to check in because only two people were at the front desk, then discover that the hot water was out so I couldn't have a shower, after that find out two of the three evening restaurants were "closed until further notice" and proceed to get bad service at the only remaining restaurant on the property open at night because they didn't have enough waiters. However, the friendliness and helpfulness of what staff there was made up for a lot, and as it happened I didn't pay big bucks so I didn't complain. Everything's in flux right now, including airline rules and airport regulations (while we were there the F.A.A. suddenly imposed the necessity of showing two forms of government ID in order to check in -- a real problem for most of the vacationers who only needed one when they left!).

The big news while we were there was an outbreak of dengue fever. We didn't run into much mosquito activity, though, and I think the problems were mostly down east around Hana which we didn't visit. Got to save something for a future trip, you know. I make it a rule to leave at least one major "must-do" sightseeing trip anywhere I go so I have a reason to come back.

It wasn't a long vacation, but the pretty scenery, the general friendliness and the warm breezes definitely buoyed my spirits in no time at all. I had a very nice, much needed break, and I did my part to support the local economy. I had a great time shopping. I found things for Dad and Sarah's birthdays this month, a little something for the folks at work to thank them for filling in for me, some plumeria scented bubble bath, a great Humuhumunukunukuapuaa t-shirt for myself, a pair of amusingly decorated flip flops, passion fruit flavored tea, and something I wouldn't dream of leaving the islands without: a plumeria and ginger lei. It's in my refrigerator in a plastic box right now. I'll wear it to work tomorrow and let some of that aloha spirit infuse my Friday.

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