09/21/98

It's 1:45am, and my body is confused. It thinks it should be awake, and I think it should be asleep. This isn't insomnia. I fell asleep five hours ago and had to drag myself out of bed to walk the dog at midnight, and now, well, now I'm awake. I am obviously from another planet, one where the normal day is 21 hours instead of 24. I keep cycling through these periods of getting sleepier earlier each day until finally I catch up about once a month and can force myself back to the unnatural 24 hour cycle of this alien world.

And speaking of periods, I haven't had mine yet this month. This is weird, to say the least. I assure you I'm not pregnant, and I've never, under the most stressful circumstances in my life, been late by so much as a day. Is this the faint, far-off ping of menopause beginning? I haven't had any hot flashes, thank god. It's possible that I miscalculated and counted off by a week, in which case never mind, but I got all the usual pre-period signals when I should have. Possibly you are saying to yourself ew, don't even tell me about your period, that is gross and girlie and sharing way too much. Listen, though: if your body had done the same thing, month after month, with monotonous regularity for almost 30 years and then one day it simply changed, you'd be pondering the ineffable, too.

All right, all right. We won't talk about my body, and we won't talk about sports, and I really am far too ill-informed to have a sensible discussion of the current Presidential flap, so what does that leave us? How about my top ten list of favorite places I've been? I have been delighted and charmed by numerous foreign countries, but I mean specific places, little cafes or vistas or stores. I recommend these to you. Don't fail to visit them next time you're jetting around the world.

First, the grand view of San Francisco and the Bay from Twin Peaks is truly lovely. It gives you a sense of the diversity and complexity of the region in one sweeping glance. The view from the Claremont Hotel in Berkeley is a close second.

Second, the Blue Lagoon in Iceland. The most science fictional bathing place you can imagine, heated by natural runoff from a geothermal plant outside Reykjavik. The water is milky turquoise surrounded by miles of barren, snowy, steaming lava fields.

Third, Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore, Italy. A Renaissance castle, refined by the 18th century, with terraced gardens and secret pathways, takes up virtually all of the tiny island. The sussuration of the water along the pebbled shore echos through every room.

Fourth, the Philosopher's Walk in Kyoto, Japan. It encapsulates Japan, from antique temples to miniature gardens of exquisite beauty to absurdly joyful vending machines set carefully along the intersection of path and roadway. In the autumn the foliage is breathtaking.

Fifth, Mama Ngina Street in Nairobi, Kenya. All Africa passes before you, black and brown and white, Muslim and Christian and animist, on foot and in matatus and in Mercedes, in an invigorating rush of humanity.

Sixth, the view at night from one of the corner triangular rooms in the Flatiron Building, New York City. It's not the highest or most spectacular viewpoint but it's unique in perspective and location, and the building is totally cool.

Seventh, flying into Quito, Ecuador during the day. Like landing in Shangri La, you suddenly come upon this sprawling white city hidden high in the Andes, ringed by spectacular volcanos. The city itself is great. Best coffee is at the Ambassador Hotel's restaurant.

Eighth, Winchester Cathedral in England. The most perfect piece of architecture, song and prayer made manifest in stone. You don't have to be religious to feel the power.

Ninth, Eggies in Minneapolis. Classic midwestern ambience with a side of art freaks, Deadheads, leather boys, software programmers, and really good breakfasts.

Tenth, the Grotte de Niaux, France. One of the few remaining caverns in southern France where you can walk in half a mile and see the original cave paintings. Forget Lascaux; rent a car in Toulouse and pay the 30 francs to get the tour (in French only).

Do you have a favorite place no one else knows about? Tell me.


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